Because the Sea Gypsies are, well, gypsies of the sea, their origins are still uncertain but it's largely held that they first arrived in Phuket from Malaysia as refugees from the Muslim invasion. Until recently they lived as nomads, moving from bay to bay when resources would run out. There are still nomadic sea gypsies in the more remote islands of northern Phuket but there are three permanent settlements along the coasts of the main Phuket Island.
The settlement at Silay is a tiny village with one main road and a few more houses off some alleys. On main street there's a medicine man laying hands on the porch of his hut, some teenagers strumming guitars with a reggae calypso feel while young kids play soccer in the local community club which is basically a cement pad under a concrete roof. People loll about, napping in whatever shade they can find and the women gather in groups, gossiping while they crack oyster and clam shells in search of pearls to make jewelery to sell to tourists.
The fishermen are already back for the day by the time I climb the hill at the end of the settlement where I sit, staring out at the wind blown sea, wondering if it's ever calm.
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