Sisters

I follow Adik through a maze of lanes and back alleys. She says it's been so long she can't quite remember where it is but, finally, we turn a corner and I say, "My god something smells fantastic!"

"Sorry Kakak, you cannot eat!" says Adik flashing me her Julia Roberts smile.

At the end of the lane is a large woman holding court in front of two giant woks. Her hands work deftly and without pause- ladling batter into the woks, folding the finished omelets in banana leaves -they seem to work of their own accord as she laughs, teases and harangues the customers seated at the few small tables and lined up waiting for take away. It takes her several minutes to notice us but when she does, she commences scolding Adik without any ceremony and never pausing from her work.

When she finally has to stop long enough to take another order, Adik tells me. "I came every day when I was in high school. Indry is like my kakak. She knows why I had to leave. She says I am ugly now, my skin is too dark and I am too skinny. She says I need to take care of myself."

"Your skin is beautiful, you look healthy and you definitely need to take care of yourself," I put in my two cents hoping Indry isn't listening because she's not the sort of woman one contradicts. But I can feel her watching me so I turn and smile at her. She says something to Adik without taking her eyes off me.

"She says," Adik translates, "you are very beautiful and should get married soon."

When Adik orders, Indry asks why I'm not having one so Adik explains I have a bule disease and cannot eat tepung. No problem. She will make me one without flour. I know I should protest, I shouldn't eat anything cooked in the same pan as tepung either, but I'm so hungry after spending the morning swimming, and it smells so good I can't resist.

She takes her time with our order so she and Adik can catch up. All the customers join in their conversation and it feels like a backyard barbecue. When I have been driven to the edge of sanity watching others devour their pieces of heaven on a plate while my stomach rumbles like a freightliner, Indry finally hands me mine. I am not disappointed. I pour on the chili sauce and don't stop to breathe until I take the last bite.

Reluctant to leave but with the afternoon slipping away Adik asks Indry for the bill, but Indry will not hear of it. When Adik insists, Indry replies in a sharp tone and feigns disgust. Adik laughs. "She will not let us pay. She says she will not take my money because I am too ugly."

Laughing, I reply, "Well, I guess she'll have to take my money then."

Adik's face brightens and she tries to hand Indry my money but Indry looks at me and says she won't take my money either because I am ugly too. She stops working long enough to give me a hug goodbye. It broke my heart to see her and Yeni, whispering urgently between their multiple goodbye hugs. Still, I thought, it's good to spend Christmas Eve with family.